The Mystery of Vanilla: Papantla, Veracruz

The Vanilla Story
Mexico assaults the senses. It is a country of strong smells. Pungeant aromas fill the coffee shops of Veracruz or the stalls in the mercado, and virtually dominate the nearby atmosphere.

Another is the full strong, wonderful aroma of real vanilla. It is as penetrating as coffee or hot chocolate cooking on the stove.

The aromatic spice was first discovered by the Spanish conquistadores in Papantla in 1524. It had been cultivated by the Totonaco Indians for centuries. Its flower is an orchid.

The Spanish were at a loss as to what to call this wonderful new spice. The word vanilla in Spanish is "vainilla". A "vaina" is a pod or a sheath. So, "vainilla" is a little pod.

Pollination Problems
Hernán Cortés took several of the new "vainilla" plants back to Spain. Although the plants grew, the Spaniards couldn´t get the vines to produce in Spain. The flowers wouldn´t pollinate.

After breakfast one morning in April in the 1850´s, a man was drinking his morning coffee on his patio at his home in Papantla. He noticed the harmless local bees flying around the yellow vanilla flowers in the patio next to his table.

Then he closely observed as one of the bees landed on the flower, and gently pulled back a flap inside the flower, then transferred pollen from the stamen to the pistil of the flower.

He began to watch other bees doing the same thing. Within hours the flowers closed. And, several days later he noticed the long vanilla pods beginning to form.

A Toothpick that Started an Empire
He had a toothpick and wondered if he could repeat the same pollination process as the bee.

Gentle Hands with a Vanilla Orchid

He gently pulled back the flap covering the pistil, found a bit of pollen, and carefully transferred it to the pistil of the flower. He watched his flower. It closed after several hours, and a couple of days later, long vanilla pods began to form, and the normal vanilla production process began.

The special bees of Papantla were no longer needed!

After the discovery of artificial pollination, everyone began to artificially pollinate their plants and the vanilla boom began in Papantla.

Later in the 20th Century artificial vanilla was developed and replaced real organic vanilla, and the economy of Papantla has stagnated ever since. This year they told us there was a scarcity of vanilla and prices were high. I didn´t know it but vanilla is one of the main ingredients in Coca-Cola.

Papantla is about a 3 hour drive north from Veracruz.

How to Get There	April in Papantla Each year during the month of April, the yellow vanilla orchids bloom and are pollinated. Papantla, Veracruz is the origin of vanilla. The Elusive Melipona Bee I was with Steve Greisen with Exploration Films, who was doing a documentary about the elusive *melipona* bee. It only lives in Papantla, Veracruz. In Spanish, it´s called the "abeja de monte", and is a black wild sting-less vanilla bee. It is the key to the pollination of vanilla plant. I know the Gulf Coast well, and am his guide and interpreter for the day. Maybe I´ll learn something about vanilla. On the way, we stopped at Boca Andrea to do a short clip of sunrise on the Gulf of Mexico.
Boca Andrea	Steve Setting Up
Vanilla for Sale on the Plaza	The Vanilla Shop Inside the Kiosk on the main plaza in Papantla is a stand with everything imaginable about vanilla. The fragrant aromatic vanilla pods can be worked into all kinds of shapes, for all tastes. Framing the little stand was a vanilla vine with its large green leaves. Then we saw the vanilla flower above his head. It was an orchid in bloom. The man said each flower blooms only once a year. For one day only. We are on the right track. Now to find the bee. He also told us he had a "rancho" where his son is now pollinating the vanilla plants and offered to take us to see how it´s done, but right now he doesn´t have anyone to watch his stand.
Vanilla Up Close	What Real Vanilla Looks Like Real vanilla doesn´t look like much. What you can´t detect from the photo is it´s wonderful aromatic smell. The two long pods at either side are 4 to 5 inches long. Dried vanilla smells great! In the form of a cross, vanilla can be hung from the rearview mirror of your car as a deodorant, filling your car with a romantic scent.
Vanilla Shapes	Vanilla Orchid
Papantla Market	The Market We didn´t have much time, and decided to check around the market. Maybe we could find more information there. In the market we found fresh aromatic coffee beans. Steve bought a kilo and paid $56 pesos. About $2.50 a lb. for fresh coffee. The man ground up the coffee, poured it into a paper bag, then put the bag inside a plastic bag and stapled it shut. Close to the entrance we found another stand with all kinds of vanilla.
La Virgen and a Girl with Some Sticks	They suggested we go to the Parque Ecológico Xanath, just outside town. His instructions were to wind through the streets and look for the "virgencita". That´s the entrance to the park. Perhaps we had expected a version of Disneyland. Looking for the Virgin We went back to the car and took off looking for a statue of the Virgin. I thought it might be at the top of the town, and we followed the road which lead out of town toward El Tajín. When we got to the valley on the other side, we realized we had gone too far and doubled back. Then we saw a small stop with people waiting for the bus.
The Valley	Next to it was a small roadside shrine dedicated to the Virgen of Guadalupe. Then we saw a small sign with an arrow pointing up a rough dirt road. "Parque Ecologico Xanath". We were getting closer. Once off the beaten path it seemed like we had left the 21th Century. It was both primitive and beautiful. Lost Valley When we crossed over the hill, it was like entering a lost world, a lush forest, then a green valley, perhaps a 100 meters from the main road from Papantla to El Tajín.
Totonacan Indian	El Parque Ecológico Xanath Up ahead through the forest we saw a small house and pulled into the driveway. A man, who kind of looked like a serious version of Cheech from a Cheech and Chong movie, was standing there with two large friendly dogs, a Dalmatian and a part Doberman. We introduced ourselves, and a little nervously asked if would be possible to see some vanilla flowers, and perhaps find out how they are pollinated. José Luis Hernández He gave us a friendly handshake and introduced himself as José Luis Hernandez.
José Luis Hernández	"I am the owner of the park and would welcome the opportunity to show you my life´s work", he said. We had come to the right place. The property has been in his family since 1872, and he has spent the last 22 years developing the hacienda into a citrus grove and vanilla plantation. The Former City Dump It´s hard to believe that this was once the Papantla city dump! He is proud of his hard work and welcomes the opportunity to show everyone his hacienda which he calls an ecological park. We felt right at home!
Come This Way	Vanilla Orchid
Pollinated Pods	A Demonstration of Pollination Most of the flowers had been pollinated several weeks ago and are taking on the form of the vanilla pods. We are at the very end of the pollination season. Then he chose a flower and showed us how to pollinate the vanilla flower with a toothpick. First, firmly grab the flower. With the toothpick, peel back the little flap, and nip a little pollen on the tip of the toothpick. Gently place the pollen on the pistil of the flower. And bingo the flower is pollinated! A very simple operation that had eluded the Spaniards for 300 years.
Grasping the Flower	Peal Back the Petal
Insert the Pollen	Pollinated Several Days Ago
Orchids	Pollinated Orchids Once the orchid is pollinated, in about 30 minutes the flower closes. A few days later, it eventually withers up leaving what used to be the stem as a pod. This is the future vanilla pod which grows through the rest of the year from April to harvest time in December. Below you can see a brown vanilla pod! The flower blooms only one day a year in the morning, so you have to pollinate them quickly.
Orchids	Orchids
Organic Fertilizer is Important	The End of the Pollination Season José Luis said we are at the very end of the pollination season. The vanilla pods are harvested in December and when they are sold to a "beneficio", or processor who dries, selects and sells the vanilla all over the world. The plant first needs a strong host, like a citrus tree. Orange groves are abundant 50 miles around Papantla. Next it needs a good organic fertilizer that surrounds the base of the orange tree and the roots of the vanilla vine. The plants are first started from a sprig about 18 inches long, stuck in the dirt. The first year it grows about 5 meters. The second year, about 15 meters. And the third year production begins.

José Luis´s Cabin	Time for a Break After showing us how the vanilla flowers are pollinated, it was time for a break. José Luis invited us into his one room house. It was fully furnished like a mountain cabin. It had traditional local items, as well as conveniences and tools of the era, just as in the days of his great grandfather, with real furniture and accessories from the 1880´s. It was like a little museum. You could see that José had really put his heart into this project.
José Luis´s Cabin	Masacoate Snake Skin
The Basic Tools	The Basic Tools The cabin was complete with all the tools needed to live well in the countryside in the 1890´s in the area around Papantla. Spurs, a machete, water gourd, and leather chaparreras, or "chaps", as we call them in Texas. You probably know they came from Mexico. I noticed a bird nest hanging from the ceiling. José Luis said it was last year´s nest of a calandria, which is kind of like an oriole. It lives in a tree outside the front door, and is busy building a new nest this year. José Luis found it on the ground a couple of weeks ago and brought in the house to hang from the ceiling.
*Last Year´s Calandria* Nest**	Hunting Rifles
Strapping on a machete	The New Section José Luis began strapping on his machete and asked us if we had time to see more of his hacienda. It´s a new section he´s working on.
An Indian Home	Another Surprise José Luis had reconstructed a two timeless Totonaco Indian huts complete with all the furnishings in a families daily life. A Trip Back to the Past José Luis took us on a walk down the dirt road to the other end of his hacienda where he had painstakingly reconstructed a Totonaco "rancho".
Man´s Tools	The Bed and Cradle
Dining Room	Kitchen with Stove
"Ant Proof" Basket Hanger Hook	A Totonac Home It´s a fascinating look at how the Totonaco Indians have always lived, and the way that many still live today. He even had a bottle of a home made snake antivenom made from local seeds, hanging on the wall. After a snake bite, "you drink the stuff to avoid the venoms effect on the nervous system," he explained. Early Pollination Techniques On the way to the huts, José Luis pointed to a cane pole with little sticks on the side. A primitive home made ladder. Climbing the tree was a vanilla vine, with a couple of flowers left. He climbed the "ladder" and gave us a demonstration of how vanilla plants were artificially pollinated in the early years by the Totonaco Indian workers.
Hanging Baskets "What are those baskets hanging from the ceiling?," I asked. "They are fresh water shrimp traps. The shrimp climb in from the bottom looking for the bait, and can´t find their way out," José Luis explained. Shrimp Traps	Shrimp Traps
Temascal or Sweat Lodge	Cold Water for Hot Rocks
Ladder Made from Cane	Early Artificial Pollination Techniques

Melipona Bee Hive	The Melipona Bee Found! When we finished touring the little village of thatched huts, José Luis said, "Come with me. I want to show you something." We followed him past the playground down a back trail through the thick jungle undergrowth. José Luis said this is where the old city garbage dump used to be. His Grandfather´s Well Down below was an old well. José Luis said it was built by his great grandfather. The electric pump and pump shelter were added later, and he uses the water for the bathrooms at the park. Up in the rafters, there they were.
Interviewing the Bees	Interviewing the Bees In two of the columns were hives of little black harmless, melipona bees. He said the honey they produce is very good. Mexico is the largest producer of honey in the world. The honey sold in the roadside stands around Papantla has a slight orangelike flavor, kind of like orange blossoms. Before artificial pollination began 150 years ago, these were the ancient pollinaters of the vanilla orchid. The End of our Quest Steve got out his equipment and began filming the bees. "Silencio!", he said. "Well, for a moment at least, please", he added laughing.
A Closer Look	Capturing the Sound He wanted to capture the sound of the wind in the trees and the sound of the bees. It was almost like he was interviewing the bees he had come so far to see. After the filming, José Luis told us the bees are harmless and love sugar. When you are drinking a coke, they try to land on the coke can, and you kind of brush them away like flies. They don´t sting.
José Luis Watching	The Wrap Up We trudged back through the playground José Luis had built for exuberant children and tired parents. He said this also used to be part of the city garbage dump. When we got to where we´d parked the car and sat down at the picnic table next to the 19th century cabin. "Esperame un momento", said José Luis as he went into the cabin. "I want you to try something."
Kid´s Playground	Xanath He brought out a bottle of Vanilla Liqueur with some small gourd cups. He explained that Xanath is the Totonaco word for the Vanilla Flower. Steve took a sip, and said, "Wow this is delicious!"
Xanath, A Vanilla Liqueur Served in Clay Cups	I don´t drink anymore but did take a whiff, and it kind of smelled like Kahlua, the rich heavy coffee liqueur, an after dinner drink. We sat around the table as Steve did a final interview with José Luis. José Luis said the problem here in Mexico is deforestation. People need to replant trees to prevent erosion. He especially enjoys the groups of school children who come here, so they can learn the importance of good ecological practices. The Lord gave us this beautiful land and it is our responsibility to take care of his gift to us. The Drive Back to Veracruz Unfortunately it was time to drive back to Veracruz and leave our new friend, José Luis.

We shook hands for the last time, and José Luis Luis told us it was a real pleasure to show us his hacienda, and to please come back to visit him any time.

We drove back to town, and made a last stop at the market. I bought one of the rosaries, and a couple of rich smelling vanilla beans as souvenirs. They told us the smell lasts 7 years.

Disaster Strikes
About an hour before reaching Veracruz we decided to stop at Quiahuiztlán, the first Veracruz where Hernán Cortes lived.

Just as we pulled off the black top the rental car died. Something electrical. Although we had current, the starter wouldn´t crank. It was 5 o´clock and it would be dark by 7. We didn´t want to be stuck out in the middle of the country side.

Stuck at Don Victor´s House at Villa Rica

A Fortunate Coincidence
We stopped at the corner house and talked to the people there. I was surprised to see a guy I have known for a couple of years.

It was don Victor, one of the INAH caretakers at Quiahuiztlán, lives in the house.

He let us use his cell phone to call the car rental company. We could leave the car and keys with Victor, and either take a bus or rural taxi (for 3 pesos more) to Cardel and take the Autobuses Unidos, or the AU or "Ah ooh", as it´s called locally, a shuttle to Veracruz. It has departures every 8 minutes.

Several Rosaries
From the Back Seat of a Rural Taxi

A Ride in a Rural Taxi
About 5 minutes later, a taxi came along. It barely had room for two tall gringos.

We piled in, and the president of a film production company and his interpreter were off on wild drive in a rickety taxi down a Mexican highway under construction.

Our lives were in the hands of a crazy man! It was like something out of a Tom Hanks or Michael Douglas movie.

Oh, groan! Why does this always happen to me, I thought to myself, knees together, squeezed into the middle of the back seat.

As we entered the heavy traffic of Cardel, our normally quiet taxi driver came to life. It was like he had another personality!

It seemed like he knew everyone in town. He honked at other taxistas, and waved, or shouted greetings out the window to people on the street. The Man had arrived!

We were happy just to get out of there. It had been a long day.

At El AU in Cardel
It was about 7:00 when we arrived at the AU bus terminal in Cardel. The AU is a second class bus service which I had always looked down on, but at this point it was luxury!

It had clean seats, and most of all, air conditioning and even a driver wearing a white shirt and neck tie. At last we could relax

We got to the main bus terminal in Veracruz and got a taxi to take Steve back to his hotel.

On the way back we talked about how we had set out at 6 AM in the morning not knowing what to expect, or even if we could find any vanilla flowers, and how we had the good fortune to meet José Luis at the Parque Ecologico Xanath.

And to witness the pollination of vanilla orchids and find the elusive, one of a kind, melipona bee were the unexpected bonuses.

I remarked that after this trip, Steve had earned the right be called the Vanilla King!

But, even though Steve is the president of a company, he is modest, and kind of laughed, and shrugged it off as tired humor after a very long day. We were both physically tired, but satisfied with a great trip to Papantla. We had accomplished what we were looking for.

Even today sitting here in my small office, with the pungent aroma of little souvenirs I bought in Papantla, wafting past the computer like fresh roasted coffee or chocolate, I remember our adventure in looking for the elusive wild melipona bees of Papantla.

It´s strange, but every time I see a tooth pick, I am reminded how a tooth pick created a million dollar industry.

Post Script
José Luis welcomes visitors and tour groups and personally conducts tours of his hacienda. He asks that you call ahead to be sure he is there to meet you and would appreciate a day or two advance notice. His phone number and address in Papantla are found below.

Here´s more information how to get there.

Park Map (Click on Map to Enlarge)

How to Get There
Papantla is an ancient Indian town with lots of narrow streets. When you find the church, follow the signs to El Tajin. Watch the one way streets.

At the edge of town, start watching for a little highway shrine to the Virgen of Guadalupe. It also serves as a bus stop. Next to the shrine is a rugged dirt road.

That´s the entrance.

Inside the Park(Click on Map to Enlarge)

Map of the Park

José Luis did this map himself.

Once inside the park follow the signs. There is a small turn around area for tour buses.

José Luis offers an interesting tour of the hacienda which lasts about an hour. He also asks for a $35 peso per person donation.

Back to the Adventures Section